My Great Canadian Canoe Trip in Algonquin Provincial Park

The Canadian Conservation Corps (CCC) is a three stage program where youth learn, grow and experience Canada all while having a real impact on conservation. The process begins with an 'adventure' phase and I was lucky enough to go on a two-week portage trip across Alqonguin Provincial Park's northwest region in autumn 2019 with expedition provider Outward Bound Canada. More information on the CCC can be found here. 

A sunny day and calm waters make happy paddlers!

A forest on fire. Autumn is a great time to visit Algonquin Park.

I wake up to birdsongs and the gentle pitter-patter of raindrops against the tarp protecting me overhead. I look around to find a spider walking through the pine needles that cover the forest floor like a fall rug. A gentle autumn breeze keeps me from unzipping my sleeping bag and starting the day. All around me the forest is on fire; a panorama of red, orange and yellow, with scatterings of green pine to remind me what the forest looked like in warmer days. I’ve just spent my first night alone in the wilderness of Algonquin Park. Luckily, I’ve managed to stay dry. This is all part of the character-building aspect of Outward Bound Canada expeditions, a ‘solo’ or two days alone with only a tarp, bug net, thermarest and sleeping bag, oh and food, of course.

View from my sleeping bag on a rainy day in Algonquin.

It's hard to believe I started this adventure with the Canadian Conservation Corps only 9 days ago. Meeting 11 other strangers, including our two amazing French-Canadian guides, and then proceeding to spend all day, every day with them in everything from pouring rain to days spent portaging across one of Canada’s most prolific provincial parks. Two-weeks in the backcountry is more difficult, wonderful, challenging (it’s just too hard to sum up in a few words!) than I’d ever imagined it would be.

Breakfast by the lake.

A foggy morning at one of our campsites.

We crossed this entire map (look for the blue route) of Alqonguin's northwest region, covering over 94 km with 12.5 km of portaging.

​Paddling and Portaging

Portaging is not for the fainthearted. Carrying 80 lbs canoes over head on trails between lakes can be exhausting and don't forget we needed to go back for barrels of personal items, food and equipment! In total, we would each go back to our original dock site three times on the portage route to bring equipment across. Our longest portage was 1.7 km (one way!). 

This trip was easily the most physically demanding trip I have ever been on. We crossed the entire northwest region of Algonquin over 14 days. Every day meant a new location and a new campsite, with the exception of our '48 hour solo'. During this solo, we were spread out individually along the coast of a lake with only a tarp, bug net, sleeping bag, tarp and our personal belongings. I didn't speak to anyone for the 48 hours and without a cellphone signal, it was a great way to unplug and experience the wilderness. 

The weather was good for early October, with quite a few sunny wind-free days. The temperature was anywhere between 1°C and 16°C. We did have some rainy days and with only two outfits for the trip, it is essential to keep at least one dry...

Here we come!

Waterproof barrels hold everything from food to equipment and personal items.

Each canoe can carry four barrels.

Packing in barrels, staying dry and the realities of backcountry camping

Outward bound provided us with 60L waterproof barrels and 20L dry bags for our personal belongings. We were also given a suggested packing list with two outfits: one wet for paddling and portaging as well as one dry outfit for camping. We dragged our canoes over beaver dams, paddled in the rain and had to step in the water at portage sites. In other words, our wet outfits were definitely wet! And in the fall, there was no guarantee it would be dry the next day when we needed to put them back on. A number of participants (myself included) would wait until the boats were loaded for the day to change into their wet socks and shoes! 

But at least the food was unexpectedly good, with everything from mac and cheese to cinnamon buns! Although I will admit by the end I was tired of powdered eggs and dehydrated vegetables.

Something you might also be wondering about was the bathroom situation. You never thought about it? Well... it was not my favourite, with 'thunderboxes' being the norm for Algonquin's backcountry. For those who have never had the pleasure of meeting a thunderbox, they are covered wooden seats with a hole dug underneath.

You definitely want to pack light! Remember you'll carrying this on your back everyday.

My 'solo' set up with a tarp, sleeping bag and thermarest.

Portaging is as hard as it looks!

That all sounds really difficult, right? 

It sure was! Outward Bound expeditions are our supposed take you out of your comfort zone and challenge you. They also offer leadership opportunities, wilderness skills and team building experiences. Outward Bound's motto is: "Get Out. Look In." and that truly was the essence of our adventure. It is surprising how much being in challenging situations bring people together. We started out as strangers but ended the trip as friends, despite the strength of personalities and age differences within the group.

Our final day of paddling turned out to be the hardest, with strong winds and white caps on Cedar Lake. The rain was like ice shards against our face and hands. Our easy 2 km paddle quickly turned to disaster as we turned the corner of a bay and came full force into the wind. If one of us stopped paddling for one stroke, the canoe moved backwards and began to rotate. It is difficult to hear the days leaders and the group began to separate. A pair of paddlers even turned parallel to the waves and their boat began to fill with water. 

A rainy day on the portage route in Algonquin Provincial Park.

It was at this point our guide (and my canoe partner) pulled the plug on our paddle, signalling that we all needed to head to shore. We had all been excited the previous day that the portaging had ended and the 2 km paddle would only take about 40 minutes. Now here we were an hour and a half later, soaking wet, freezing and portaging along a hiking trail. It is fair to say that tensions were high. But we survived. After portaging the final 300 meters, we saw the first signs of civilization like a beacon of hope after two-weeks in the wilderness. We were picked up in the lake's visitor parking lot and finally got to change into our regular, not to mention dry, clothes. 

One of the great parts about portaging Algonquin in the fall is the lack of visitors. These canoers were the only other people we saw over the two weeks.

So, was it worth it? 
​
We saw so many beautiful landscapes and the striking fall colours made this trip unforgettable. We learnt about ourselves and what we are capable of but also about how to treat others, how to be more understanding and compassionate. I am just beginning my Stage 2 of the Canadian Conservation Corps program, with an internship at the Canadian Wildlife Federation, but I already feel more confident in my abilities as a leader and wildlife educator after this trip. I cried when I was sick as a dog and carrying a canoe on my shoulders but also cried of laughter around the campfire. The bruises and aching muscles were only temporary but the memories and friendships will last a lifetime.

If there's one thing I took away from this whole adventure: it's that you should appreciate the modern toilet and running water. Next time you've 'got to go', I implore you to take a moment to think about how easy and comfortable it is.  Peeing in the woods with the constant fear of 11 other people walking in on you is never fun. 

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